Uses for Hydrogen Peroxide in the aquarium: Algae Removal

Posted on March 29th, 2010 by 41

Many household uses

3%

I would like to introduce a tool that I have found extremely useful in my years of aquaculturing coral. Hydrogen peroxide has been a time saver, and a life saver (as well as harbinger of near total death and destruction). For years it has been known that barley straw bales when used in ponds, release hydrogen peroxide as byproduct of decomposition. Later companies marketed barley derived algae inhibiters. I started using hydrogen peroxide as a dip, or for direct application to troublesome algae.

At first I dipped various corals that I had a lot of clones of in 3% hydrogen peroxide solution, like you get from the pharmacy. I did time trials for times ranging from 3-12 minutes. By far some of the Cnidarians (Corals, Anemones, Jellyfish…) most resistant to the hydrogen peroxide are Zoanthus sociatus type, small polyped Zoanthids. I accidently left some in 3% solution for over 45 minutes. Not long after that they were open and flourishing. Coral on the other end of this spectrum include Hydnophora, adult Pocillopora, and some Acropora. Hydnophora seem to melt almost on contact. For some reason, small colonies settled as planulae, are rather resistant to the effects of hydrogen peroxide. Adults suffer after a minute or two. Acropora have to be approached on a species by species basis. Some can’t take 30 second baths without dying back. A few species can stay in for 6 minutes with no ill effects. I recommend playing it safe with these guys at first, until you start to get a feel for it. Also most algae problems will be around the base of the colony. Here you can just use a small pipette to squirt hydrogen peroxide onto the offending algae. Coral such as birdsnest Seriatpora barely encrust, if at all, often it is easiest to clip them off and start over on a fresh plug.

If there does happen to be a spot in the middle of the colony that is covered in algae, careful removal of the algae, and rinsing with hydrogen peroxide will allow the coral to start to re-grow over the exposed skeleton. A vibrant colony of algae will produce compounds that retard the growth of the coral in the surrounding area, preventing recolonization of the skeleton with coral tissue. By killing this algae off, including algae deeper down into the skeleton, where snails, and tweezers can reach, you allow the coral to be free to grow with out direct competition from the algae.

More recently I have been using diluted doses of hydrogen peroxide. This has been helpful for species like Montipora, Acropora, and Pocillopora that show such a high sensitivity to 3% solutions.

I have been finding that hydrogen peroxide has many more uses, rather than just the removal of algae.There are many more uses for hydrogen peroxide that I will discuss at a later date, among them flatworm and nudibranchs dips, and aiptasia removal. In the meantime happy reefing.

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  • Andy

    FYI, Pharmaceutical grade, technical or ACS grade have different stabilizers in them. Not sure which is better, but from my experience techincal grade has a better stabilizer, stays active longer. It’s murder on copepods.

  • Andy

    FYI, Pharmaceutical grade, technical or ACS grade have different stabilizers in them. Not sure which is better, but from my experience techincal grade has a better stabilizer, stays active longer. It’s murder on copepods.

  • moonmoon

    Interesting article

    I am uncertain of application. You are dipping rocks encrusted with corals to remove various types of algae?

    I am uncertain why this is necessary when algae can be controlled with cycle times and proper care. What is going on that requires what appears a very harsh treatment?

  • moonmoon

    Interesting article

    I am uncertain of application. You are dipping rocks encrusted with corals to remove various types of algae?

    I am uncertain why this is necessary when algae can be controlled with cycle times and proper care. What is going on that requires what appears a very harsh treatment?

  • glen

    pour it on a common house fly and they sizzle and foam up real nice.

  • glen

    pour it on a common house fly and they sizzle and foam up real nice.

  • Joe V

    Pour it on a used kitchen sponge. Outside. Stand back.

  • Joe V

    Pour it on a used kitchen sponge. Outside. Stand back.

  • Ryan

    I’m interested in the flatworm and aptasia removal.

  • Ryan

    I’m interested in the flatworm and aptasia removal.

  • Tony

    The 30% solution, pictured in the image, can be used to eradicate aiptasia. Simply inject a tiny amount of the solution in the oral disk of the anemone, like you would with Joe’s Juice or other similar product, and watch it melt away. It will instantly foam up and melt, then gone!
    The hard part is getting the product. You used to be able to ask for and buy it at most any pharmacy, but no more.

  • Tony

    The 30% solution, pictured in the image, can be used to eradicate aiptasia. Simply inject a tiny amount of the solution in the oral disk of the anemone, like you would with Joe’s Juice or other similar product, and watch it melt away. It will instantly foam up and melt, then gone!
    The hard part is getting the product. You used to be able to ask for and buy it at most any pharmacy, but no more.

  • http://www.youtube.com/sofalove Justin Credabel

    I have pre-prepared a video response for this blog:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4ITUzifk_4

    As far as why you need for algae and such, sometimes you may get an algae that absolutely nothing will eat, and even with proper tank maintenance and parameters it still won’t go away. This is a last resort type this for horrible algae infestations
    The 30% in the picture is most definitely the ultimate nuclear option, as it will kill everything.
    I use 3% for most uses because it is easier to handle, and harder to overdose your favorite coral.

  • http://www.youtube.com/sofalove Justin Credabel

    I have pre-prepared a video response for this blog:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4ITUzifk_4

    As far as why you need for algae and such, sometimes you may get an algae that absolutely nothing will eat, and even with proper tank maintenance and parameters it still won’t go away. This is a last resort type this for horrible algae infestations
    The 30% in the picture is most definitely the ultimate nuclear option, as it will kill everything.
    I use 3% for most uses because it is easier to handle, and harder to overdose your favorite coral.

  • http://www.youtube.com/sofalove Justin Credabel

    I have pre-prepared a video response for this blog:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4ITUzifk_4

    As far as why you need for algae and such, sometimes you may get an algae that absolutely nothing will eat, and even with proper tank maintenance and parameters it still won’t go away. This is a last resort type this for horrible algae infestations
    The 30% in the picture is most definitely the ultimate nuclear option, as it will kill everything.
    I use 3% for most uses because it is easier to handle, and harder to overdose your favorite coral.

  • http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XOsitYhihc Brandon Mason

    your article was a source of experimental information I found really interesting. it made me wonder if you could formulate a gel medium or use a toothpaste medium to hold the peroxide in place, on the spot in question, so its destructive oxidation characters could be localized.

  • http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XOsitYhihc Brandon Mason

    your article was a source of experimental information I found really interesting. it made me wonder if you could formulate a gel medium or use a toothpaste medium to hold the peroxide in place, on the spot in question, so its destructive oxidation characters could be localized.

  • Gary White

    Greetings All !

    From:
    MSDS Hydrogen Peroxide
    http://msds.chem.ox.ac.uk/HY/hydrogen_peroxide_30pc.html

    ———————————-
    Safety glasses are essential; acid-resistant gloves are suggested. Suitable ventilation.

    Unstable – readily decomposes to water and oxygen. Light sensitive. May develop pressure in the bottle – take care when opening. Forms potentially explosive compounds with ketones, ethers, alcohols, hydrazine, glycerine, aniline, sodium borate, urea, sodium carbonate, triethylamine, sodium fluoride, sodium pyrophosphate and carboxylic acid anhydrides. Materials to avoid include combustibles, strong reducing agents, most common metals, organic materials, metallic salts, alkali, porous materials, especially wood, asbestos, soil, rust, strong oxidizing agents.

    Toxicology
    Toxic. Corrosive – can causes serious burns. Eye contact can cause serious injury, possibly blindness. Harmful by inhalation, ingestion and skin contact.

    R8 Contact with combustible material may cause fire.
    R22 Harmful if swallowed.
    R34 Causes burns.
    R41 Risk of serious damage to the eyes.
    ———————————-

    As these kinds of techniques and chemicals become more commonly available in reefkeepers’ toolboxes, reviewing doucments like this one would probably be a good thing …

    School Chemistry Laboratory Safety Guide (2006)
    http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/NiOSH2007107.pdf

    @Justin …

    I love what you’re doing at UWWE, and thoroughly enjoy your style & passion in the documentation and promotion of advanced experimental reefkeeping techniques … sweet!However … modelling the guzzling of a strong oxidizer, and presenting the use of 30% H2O2 without supporting safety context, documentation, and technique(s) are probably not good things.

    Yes, I have a sense of humor … JMO … I’m just sayin’ … no offense intended.

  • Gary White

    Greetings All !

    From:
    MSDS Hydrogen Peroxide
    http://msds.chem.ox.ac.uk/HY/hydrogen_peroxide_30pc.html

    ———————————-
    Safety glasses are essential; acid-resistant gloves are suggested. Suitable ventilation.

    Unstable – readily decomposes to water and oxygen. Light sensitive. May develop pressure in the bottle – take care when opening. Forms potentially explosive compounds with ketones, ethers, alcohols, hydrazine, glycerine, aniline, sodium borate, urea, sodium carbonate, triethylamine, sodium fluoride, sodium pyrophosphate and carboxylic acid anhydrides. Materials to avoid include combustibles, strong reducing agents, most common metals, organic materials, metallic salts, alkali, porous materials, especially wood, asbestos, soil, rust, strong oxidizing agents.

    Toxicology
    Toxic. Corrosive – can causes serious burns. Eye contact can cause serious injury, possibly blindness. Harmful by inhalation, ingestion and skin contact.

    R8 Contact with combustible material may cause fire.
    R22 Harmful if swallowed.
    R34 Causes burns.
    R41 Risk of serious damage to the eyes.
    ———————————-

    As these kinds of techniques and chemicals become more commonly available in reefkeepers’ toolboxes, reviewing doucments like this one would probably be a good thing …

    School Chemistry Laboratory Safety Guide (2006)
    http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/NiOSH2007107.pdf

    @Justin …

    I love what you’re doing at UWWE, and thoroughly enjoy your style & passion in the documentation and promotion of advanced experimental reefkeeping techniques … sweet!However … modelling the guzzling of a strong oxidizer, and presenting the use of 30% H2O2 without supporting safety context, documentation, and technique(s) are probably not good things.

    Yes, I have a sense of humor … JMO … I’m just sayin’ … no offense intended.

  • http:/www.route66marine.com Gary White

    Greetings All !

    From:
    MSDS Hydrogen Peroxide
    http://msds.chem.ox.ac.uk/HY/hydrogen_peroxide_30pc.html

    ———————————-
    Safety glasses are essential; acid-resistant gloves are suggested. Suitable ventilation.

    Unstable – readily decomposes to water and oxygen. Light sensitive. May develop pressure in the bottle – take care when opening. Forms potentially explosive compounds with ketones, ethers, alcohols, hydrazine, glycerine, aniline, sodium borate, urea, sodium carbonate, triethylamine, sodium fluoride, sodium pyrophosphate and carboxylic acid anhydrides. Materials to avoid include combustibles, strong reducing agents, most common metals, organic materials, metallic salts, alkali, porous materials, especially wood, asbestos, soil, rust, strong oxidizing agents.

    Toxicology
    Toxic. Corrosive – can causes serious burns. Eye contact can cause serious injury, possibly blindness. Harmful by inhalation, ingestion and skin contact.

    R8 Contact with combustible material may cause fire.
    R22 Harmful if swallowed.
    R34 Causes burns.
    R41 Risk of serious damage to the eyes.
    ———————————-

    As these kinds of techniques and chemicals become more commonly available in reefkeepers’ toolboxes, reviewing doucments like this one would probably be a good thing …

    School Chemistry Laboratory Safety Guide (2006)
    http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/NiOSH2007107.pdf

    @Justin …

    I love what you’re doing at UWWE, and thoroughly enjoy your style & passion in the documentation and promotion of advanced experimental reefkeeping techniques … sweet!However … modelling the guzzling of a strong oxidizer, and presenting the use of 30% H2O2 without supporting safety context, documentation, and technique(s) are probably not good things.

    Yes, I have a sense of humor … JMO … I’m just sayin’ … no offense intended.

  • Dave Lee

    I’m an ER doc

    30%+ Hydrogen peroxide is incredibly dangerous. A single droplet splashed in your eye will severely damage your cornea. Guaranteed. I’ve seen it happen to several people over the years. One of them an aquarist trying to cure ich on his fish.

    If you do use the 30% stuff, please be extremely careful.

  • Dave Lee

    I’m an ER doc

    30%+ Hydrogen peroxide is incredibly dangerous. A single droplet splashed in your eye will severely damage your cornea. Guaranteed. I’ve seen it happen to several people over the years. One of them an aquarist trying to cure ich on his fish.

    If you do use the 30% stuff, please be extremely careful.

  • shaun s

    I may have to try this on algae and aptasia later today. The other good use I have found for hydrogen peroxide is as power outage support. A mustard bottle filled half way with 3% and a lead fishing weight in the bottle. Put a piece of air line on the spout and hook up an air stone. The peroxide separates into H2O & O2 and the O2 goes into the tank.

  • shaun s

    I may have to try this on algae and aptasia later today. The other good use I have found for hydrogen peroxide is as power outage support. A mustard bottle filled half way with 3% and a lead fishing weight in the bottle. Put a piece of air line on the spout and hook up an air stone. The peroxide separates into H2O & O2 and the O2 goes into the tank.

  • shaun s

    I may have to try this on algae and aptasia later today. The other good use I have found for hydrogen peroxide is as power outage support. A mustard bottle filled half way with 3% and a lead fishing weight in the bottle. Put a piece of air line on the spout and hook up an air stone. The peroxide separates into H2O & O2 and the O2 goes into the tank.

  • http://www.uwwe.com Justin Credabel

    Hi Dave,
    I agree, I prefer a 3% solution to avoid overdose in coral, or injury to myself. The picture shows someone diluting a 30% solution. I recommend people just get the 3% because it is cheap enough and readily available.
    -Rock
    The Future is Now

  • http://www.uwwe.com Justin Credabel

    Hi Dave,
    I agree, I prefer a 3% solution to avoid overdose in coral, or injury to myself. The picture shows someone diluting a 30% solution. I recommend people just get the 3% because it is cheap enough and readily available.
    -Rock
    The Future is Now

  • DJ Payne

    Does it work on Bryopsis?????????

  • DJ Payne

    Does it work on Bryopsis?????????

  • shaun s

    There are a lot of options between 3 & 30%…try sallybeauty.com(or any beauty supply) if you want something in between.

  • shaun s

    There are a lot of options between 3 & 30%…try sallybeauty.com(or any beauty supply) if you want something in between.

  • http://www.youtube.com/sofalove Justin Credabel

    Kills bryopsis

  • http://www.youtube.com/sofalove Justin Credabel

    Kills bryopsis

  • http://www.uwwe.com Justin Credabel

    Ok, I changed the picture to reflect that fact that I’m talking about a pharmacuetical grade 3% solution. It’s a great mouthwash and coral disinfectant.

  • http://www.uwwe.com Justin Credabel

    Ok, I changed the picture to reflect that fact that I’m talking about a pharmacuetical grade 3% solution. It’s a great mouthwash and coral disinfectant.

  • http://www.uwwe.com Justin Credabel

    Ive worked with 30% solutions too but there is a much easier chance to hurt yourself or the coral. I always had to dilute it down past 3% or less for Montipora dips anyways.
    I will talk about using H202 for Flatworms and nudis in a future post.

  • http://www.uwwe.com Justin Credabel

    Ive worked with 30% solutions too but there is a much easier chance to hurt yourself or the coral. I always had to dilute it down past 3% or less for Montipora dips anyways.
    I will talk about using H202 for Flatworms and nudis in a future post.

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  • Bencae

    Is the 3% very effective on Aptasia and Anemonia? I am going to try it out next week and post what I observe.

  • Bencae

    Is the 3% very effective on Aptasia and Anemonia? I am going to try it out next week and post what I observe.

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